Jil Sander

For this season's collection, vivid shades like geranium, lyme grass, and daffodil took their inspiration from the smallest details in nature, and looked electric against a blackened Florentine sky. Pleated detailing on the back of a techno trench showed the designer's skill for precise razor-sharp tailoring. A series of slim-cut suits in black-on-black wool hit just the right beat amid all the screaming brights. Graphic color-block-printed shirts seemed to get their gusto from the hard-edged paintings of Frank Stella and a black-and-fuchsia striped sweater nodded to the punk style of the Mudd Club. Interrupting the formality of the signature uniform tailoring by showing a jacket with a pair of what looked like boxers is the kind of boy-centric ploy the designer's used before. As a man with legacy on his mind, it makes sense he would want to consolidate the imprimatur he's established at Jil Sander. Raf Simons' bold swagger was in full force, goose bumps included. This profusion of color was a technicolor dream.